TOS-LYR: Tromsø - Longyearbyen

The only real way into Svalbard and Jan Mayen is by plane. Fortunately, SAS provide a regular service from Oslo, via Tromsø, a few times a week. They fly quite large planes, which means it's a very comfortable way into the Arctic. For those that aren't aware, Svalbard and Jan Mayen is technically part of Norway, but is actually administered under the Svalbard Treaty, which gives equal rights to the citizens of the original signatories (including citizens of countries such as Afghanistan). While in theory this makes it a free-for-all, in reality, you have to go through Schengen and Norwegian immigration.

Oddly enough, even though Svalbard is outside Schengen, Norway does not seem to offer any border controls at Tromsø airport, which means anyone staying in Svalbard for some time from a non-EU country may want to check that they have their time out of Schengen recorded. This, incidentally, is one of the only ways you can get your passport stamped -- by the Governor of Svalbard. They don't stamp passports unless 'you will get in trouble in your home country'. And as they don't enforce Schengen, I would think this would be a valid reason to ask for proof that you were there.

Svalbard

The main settlement in Svalbard is at Longyearbyen, a small settlement of around 2,000 people, mainly there to support the mining and transportation industries. There are a few places to stay, which are pricey (as this is, after all, Norway). We stayed at Mary-Ann's Polarrigg which was very cosy (they know how to insulate homes up here), and had a lovely wood burner that made it very comfy.